Waves in Shallow Water (WASH)

EPSRC-funded research into breaking and broken ocean waves.

First Waves

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It has been a while since the experiment in Saltburn, with much of the team's time taken up with preparations for the second experiment in Quintero, Chile later this month.  However as a taste of things to come we have produced a short animation of the surface elevation data for a series of waves captured by the Lidar array around high tide at Saltburn.

By capturing the water surface about every 10cm over almost 100m, 25 times per second we are effectively able to take a cross-section out through 1.5 m high breaking and broken waves!

At high tide, large waves were reflected by a steep gravel slope on the upper beach and the Lidar data captures the collision of these reflected waves with the incoming waves.  The level of detail captured by the data is fantastic and the ability to capture highly-localised and short duration processes is very promising for our future work.  A short communication paper detailing the experiment, processing methodology and some initial results is currently in preparation.

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